the health of surfing

Surfing is collaborative and humbling. First, you must recognize how a wave is working. You can't change a wave; you must work with it. The routine involves a schedule according to the tides and daylight, as much as it requires dedication, obedience and loyalty to the coast's whims and wishes. This is perhaps a main cause of abandoning "normal" life for surf life: with surf, one's life automatically becomes fulfilling.

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